MrKiwi's rambunctious ramblings

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Re: MrKiwi's rambunctious ramblings

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This church was the first building in Riga and dates back to 1201. For a couple of hundred years, this was the Abbey where trade originated and flourished, eventually turning into the city it is today.

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It is a big rectangle building with providing fortification against raiders of the day. The inside centre would have been their gardens for producing food.

Some pics
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A few more pics of the city follow.

Riga is famous for a number of things, but in Riga there is a famous story about a black cat. Wikipedia has this to say...

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/black-cat-on-roof" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
One Riga local was so offended that he attached a black cat on top of his building so it would cast its evil glare upon the Guild for as long as the building would stand.

With an arched back, the Black Cat of Riga seems ready to strike and clearly states the man’s displeasure at not getting admitted to the Guild. Obviously, the members of the guild hated the sculpture, and a fight between the man and the guild raged for months to come. Although an agreement was reached and the statue turned around, the Black Cat still sits on its perch in Old Town Riga.


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We wound our way back to the hotel to freshen up after a lot of walking. Then our Latvian friends picked us up and took us out to Jurmula, a nice beach on the Baltic, and also where many wealthy Russians have their holiday blot holes behind locked gates and armed guards.

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But the beach, once reached is lovely. We spent a some time at the beach than then headed into for dinner, than back to watch the sunset. The pics tell the story

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Not my dinner, but I wished I had ordered this when I saw it arrive
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I was trying to be good and ordered a salad, but when it came I saw it had been murdered by cheese and dressing!
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So I gave up and ordered a nice smoothly (not healthy when you know what is in it) and the dessert to kill for :lol8

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Then back outside to enjoy the sunset.

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Having enjoyed a day off the bike, the next day was a transit day through Lithuania. We headed from Riga to Vilnius with only a detour to the Hill of Crosses.

But first, our Latvian friend owns a workshop and we took our bikes there for a quick service check. His team worked on the bikes while we enjoyed freshly brewed coffee and pastries.

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His guard dog was friendly once he was introduced to us by the owner
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Klaus restores classic cars for wealthy clients across Europe. Here is a look at one of his projects...


After checking the chain, tires and a few other things we left and hit the motorways. A short time later we peeled off to head to the hill of crosses. I will let the video explain it, other than to say this is a sobering site to visit even though now it is rather touristy.

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A few pics of the hill of crosses, and let's just note again yet another country that values tremendously the NATO alliance.

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Then back to the slab for a commute to Vilnius. Our stay for the night was a motel above a service station along the ring road around the city. Handy, practical and comfortable, albeit not close to anything very much. But the service station did have a food outlet so dinner and breakfast was a simple and practical affair.

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Reflections on the Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.

Each of these countries has it's own history but share some common history. Previously a part of Prussia/Germany and then under Russian occupation/governance they have managed to keep their sense of identify and uniqueness to a certain extent. I previously knew nothing of these countries other than where they were on a map and from what I had read from rtwpaul's ride report. To ride through them, albeit in a far to rushed a manner, has meant I came away with a greater appreciation of these countries and their history.

Next up is Poland, and like the above, I knew little about Poland. From a motorcycle riding destination I knew nothing.
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We spent two days riding across Poland, and the night we stayed at Gdansk we met up with a fellow riding buddy Bogdan, who had been at the VIM19 motorcycle meeting just a week earlier on Gotland Island.

@Two Plugs set the GPS to shortest route, and I must say this was great fun. We hit some really shitty roads which were a hoot to ride. But also, it meant we rode through rural Poland, experiencing the small towns/villages and the rural landscape. Poland has a lot of roads lined by trees. These are incredibly scenic routes and a joy to ride.

I'm not sure my bike is thanking me for riding at high speed over some of the rougher bits of road, but I sure had a good time.

We made two stops on the way to Sopot, our designation for the night, making for a long day as we traveled just under 600 km for the day. That's a lot considering the nature of the roads. The first one was to see the Wolf's Liar, Hilter's war centre and where he survived an assassination attempt, and Malbork Castle, the largest red brick castle in the world.

Some pics
The Wolfs Liar - The Russian tried to destroy this site after the war, but the size and strength of the Nazi engineering of the bunkers made this nigh on impossible.
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Video riding in rural Poland



Along the way we rode past, stopped turned and around and checked out yet another church

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Saw lots of this
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Then we came to the largest brick castle in the world (as far as I know). And as you know, I am partial to a good bit of brick work.

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But I will let Bernie the oracle (as we came to refer to him during the trip, his specialty is historical buildings) explain this to you by video

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The pattern of riding had evolved in this trip. The early stages up to Finland had been mostly main roads which is not my style. But post Finland where I had said a few strong words to my riding companions the trip had morphed into Bernard and his girl friend and me riding the rural roads which were usually quite rough in nature while Mense and his wife (pillion) peeled off to stay in the smoother roads.

The three of us had a lot of fun as you can tell from the above video. My European trip was largely back on track (excuse the pun). My bike was handling it very well. The new suspension fitted in 2016 (Wilbers) set up for my weight was doing the job.
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Gdansk was reached and we headed to Sopot to the hotel.

Bernie the oracle and Bogdan, our Polish friend enjoying a drink on Bogdan's birthday. Not sure why the oracle was frowning!

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We headed out for dinner, shouting Bogdan his meal, and then a walk down to the pier on the way back to the hotel.

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Reflections on Poland.

I liked riding in Poland. People would smile and wave as you ride past, boys would give you the hand signal to rev your bike, which I often obliged with the Laser exhaust. At one intersection an elderly man game and shook our hands as we waited for the train to pass.

The roads were a real mix from excellent to down right crappy. But on an adventure bike with good suspension these crappy roads were a hoot to ride. Not so for Mense and his wife of the S10. Fully loaded these roads were not kind to the pillion. So on the last three days, Mense would ride with us for a while and then seek our smoother roads and catch up with us at night.
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Sunday 18 June - Sopot, Poland to Uckeritz, Germany.

Monday 19 June - the home run.

These two days were characterised by the wide mixture of roads, heat, a lovely meal at night in Uckeritz and then part way home on the Monday we decided to seek out the autobahn and race home. Well, not exactly race as the Transalp is not capable of cruising above 130 km/hr. At the speed its fuel consumption is terrible and it also tends to use a little oil.

But home we got, had some cold beers and bummed out.

Some pics
nice location for a meal
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The meal I ordered was fantastic. The Germans do a mean veal schnitzel
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The next morning came the home run. We started on back roads, and Mense soon peeled off to take a short cut home via the autobahn. We don't know what route he ended up taking as we got back a couple of hours before him.

By midday the temperature was reaching high 30's (celcius) and we decided to race home via the autobahn ourselves. I say race, but the Transalp is not a speedy machine, struggling to cruise over 130km/hr. When I do cruise at or just above this speed the bike uses a little oil and lots of fuel. The difference is 290km until reserve normally versus 180 km to reserve - ouch!

A little collateral damage along the way
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GoPro all set and ready to use
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Home at last, we at least my second home anyway, the one in the Netherlands.
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I had a couple of days to wash clothes, clean the bike, take it to the local workshop to the wiring changed for the GPS and get ready to set off on my solo trip. The GPS keep blowing a fuse, so we had to redo the wiring from the battery. I didn't have the tools while on the trip, so it was a trip to the local bike shop to get it sorted.

Part one was over and I was still in high spirits. Part two was more of a test, this would be the first time I was riding in Europe by myself. I would have no one around to help me if I got into trouble. I was both looking forward to it and also experiencing a little trepidation. Turned out I needn't of worried. There were some moments, but these added to the character of the trip.

So the day came all very soon and I set off for a ten day ride. The plan was:
-ride to Wolfsburg to visit the VW factory (a work thing I wanted to do while there)
- head to Munich to catch up with an old university friend
- spend a night in Austria
- Ride up Stelvio Pass from Trafoi, Italy (Number one bucket list item since I first bought a bike in the late 1970's)
- Ride through Switzerland
- Head back to the Netherlands via the Black Forest.

A stop on day one of the trip to reflect on the differences between group and solo riding

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A short introductory video ...
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-zDb ... k-1920.mp4
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The first day's ride was made in fine hot weather. The roads were good, organised and easy to navigate. Until that is, I got into Wolfsburg to find the hotel. The road in the GPS had been closed and turn into a foot path. I got the distinct feeling German locals did not appreciate this kiwi riding on the footpath! Me, I was just tired and once I saw where the the hotel was I just headed straight for it.

My top box became the food bag for the day. I was using a small cooler bag inside it to keep food fresh. While traveling with my dutch friends, they ate a lot of breads and pastries. I suffer from gluten intolerance which most of the time I don't notice. But I had it flare up when traveling with them so I swapped to more diary products and less breads. Cheeses, yogurt, fruit and boiled eggs.

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The joy of riding by myself was the ability to stop whenever I wanted. And that was refreshing after riding with the dutch as they did not often stop. I have a tonne of pictures as a result, but these few will do.

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How is your German
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And finally Wolfsburg and the VW factory from my hotel window.
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:Clap

And now we know where the famous dessert came from! :thumb
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This VW factory produces four different models for all over the world, including NZ. It employs around 72,000 people so is a city all by itself. It has its own medical centre, butchers, grocery store, fire department and the list goes on.

No pictures, I was not allowed to take any. The tour took the morning and with work now done, by 1:00pm I was on the road, heading south towards the Harz region. My destination was Bad Grund, Harz. I had stayed here the year before during a trip I did with Bernie the oracle. The hotel I wanted to stay at was booked for the night but they put me onto another one, which turned out to be run by a Aussie who had lived in NZ and now lives in Germany.

The day was exceedingly hot, with temperatures reaching 39C (102F). Inside my jacket was hotter so I would stop every hour or so and pour some water inside my jacket to generate cooling from evaporation affect.

Some pics of the day

Outrunning a storm (one of my favourite pics from the trip)
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trimmed ...
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Stopping to get water. The temperature here was 39.6C
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Approaching Bad Grund and the hills.
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A point to note, so far on the trip I had completed around 5,500km but not got any higher than about 1500 feet in elevation. Now I was starting to hit some hills and elevation of around closer to 3000 feet. The temperatures dropped a little.

The storm eventually catching up with me about ten minutes after I reached my accommodation for the night

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A little video of running up the hill towards Bad Grund. I get a little confused at the end of this as I approach road works. The road was blocked but with no clear alternative route, so I just road on through. The two guys watching me from the side were not amused :lol8

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The storm passed through and the next day it was again good riding weather. Today's target was just short of Munich so I could visit the Africa Queen's shop to see if they had a seat modification for my Africa Twin back home.

I stopped at a place called Schweitenkirchen for the night. I had made the booking that morning via a phone ap, and they sent me an access code to enter the building. No one was there, it was one of the new type of cheap accommodation which is self serve, but no food. Food was nearby at a mall across the road. The accommodation unit was large and as far as I could tell only about three or four groups staying in it for the night. There were four floors with about 30 rooms a floor. I had a floor all to myself.

The next morning I headed to the Africa Queens shop, a small workshop specialising in making custom parts for the old Africa Twins. Sadly they had not started in parts for the new AT.

A new bridge on the way to the workshop, made to look old until you got close to it.
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Then down to Munich to catch up with an old buddy from 30 years ago.
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My home for the next two nights was the camper van
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The next day we went the Olympic Park for a couple of festivals.

One happy camper
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caught some biking action
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A warm but relaxing day
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We headed across the park to a music and arts/craft festival. A sand sculpture caught my eye. I never was any good at building sand castles, let alone sculptures.
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My mate loves his long boarding (but his sons are much better at it).
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Typical German countryside as I head towards Munich from Bad Grund

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After a couple of days of reminiscing, drinking lots of German beer and eating way too much, I struggled back into my riding gear, packed the bike and said my farewells to an old friend and his two sons.

Austria was my target.

The day was damp and cool. As I got towards the border I realised I had been climbing in elevation and now for the first time on the trip started to see some proper mountains. I almost felt at home, except these mountains are taller than we have at home.

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The architecture started to change too
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Some decent hills
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At the border I purchased a ten day vinette which would allow me to ride the toll roads if I needed to. It was a small cost of about $8.00NZ. I didn't need to in the end but it was worth the option just in case.

I made it to Zams, located the biker hotel (quite expensive as it turned out) and settled in for the night.

The view from my hotel window was comforting and familiar even though I had never been here before.
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I settled in, and ordered what I thought was a small dinner. Wrong, is was generous to say the least...

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The next day dawned bright and fine. I have to say I was experiencing a lot of emotions coming into Austria and getting close to an ambition of mine I had had for more than 35 years. Two before this day the pass was closed due to bad weather. It was closed gain two days latter due to snow. I was lucky. Karma is good when it is on your side.

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Stats for this day are:
- 505 kms
- three passes, one twice (duh)
- average spped 54 km/hr
- just over 9 hours riding time.

Not a cloud in the sky
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I crossed the border into Italy and rode towards Trafoi. But for some reason The Mistress (my name for the GPS) wanted to tease me and and had me going into Switzerland too soon. So I soon sorted her out and was back on track.

Trafio. I turned on my GoPro and started filming.
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This is the full ride from bottom to top. It is just under 25 minutes in duration and I have watched this about 20 times. So if you have the time, let me show you what the ride up Stelvio Pass from Trafoi is like

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